On safari in South Africa, I saw the hunters and the hunted

When: Jan.-Feb. 2025

Trip rating: 5/5

Where did you stay? Kapama Buffalo Camp, located within the Kapama Private Game Reserve on the edge of Kruger National Park.

What inspired you to take this trip? This was a trip that we had been contemplating for some time. In fact, we had planned to visit South Africa including a safari several years ago, but as my wife was a teacher (now retired), we could travel only during the summer. We were reminded that summer in Toronto is winter in South Africa, and this means that the bush is less lush, and the animals less active, and so we did not go at that time.

What was the most interesting sight? Observing animals in their natural habitat was awe-inspiring. We saw impala, referred to as the “fast food of the bush.” Graceful giraffes drank at water holes, the male watching over the females and young. Elephants crossed trails seeking relief in water holes, where the young played before being guided away by their mothers. We saw lions. Once, we had to drive around a lion asleep on the trail, oblivious to our presence. We observed buffalo, hippos and zebras. The highlight was sighting, then trailing, a leopard as it stalked its prey, and watching this beautiful, lithe, swift animal transform into a deadly predator.

What was your favourite activity? We moved through the bush in a four-wheeled jeep. The trails were rutted and often inclined at ridiculous angles, but our guides, Themba and Kenneth, were skilled and experienced, and navigated the impossible terrain almost effortlessly. We travelled early morning when the animals awoke, and in late afternoon when the animals feasted on their prey, or in the evening when they hunted or were hunted.

Our evenings on the trail concluded with a “sundowner” in a safe clearing, comprising biscuits and choice of beverage, either beer, spirits or pop, served by our guides, and consumed under the spectacular African sunset.

What was the most delicious thing you ate? This trip was definitely not “roughing it.” The food served at the camp was of a high hotel calibre and was typically Western-style, although we did eat crocodile and venison. Our servers were friendly and attentive, without being intrusive, and were keen to share stories about their families, and ours. As well, we exchanged lifestyle and culture stories with our fellow guests, who hailed from different parts of the world.

What was the most memorable thing you learned? We learned that while nature can be cruel, as animals are either the hunter or the hunted, this way of life has existed within the animal kingdom for thousands, if not millions, of years. Animals have as much right to our planet’s resources as we have, and it was a privilege to observe them, and learn about their behaviour and way of life. Much animal behaviour mirrors our own, especially how they raise and protect their young. Nature can exist in concert with humankind, but the animal kingdom is vulnerable, and will decline unless we take positive and sustainable action.

What is one piece of advice you’d give? Once you have ensured that you are medically prepared to visit Africa, do take a good camera, one that can zoom in on a distant animal and can freeze the action if necessary. Taking videos, as well as stills, can enhance your library of captured memories greatly.

Also, be prepared to see animals in the wild. This is nature. We saw lions mating and a buffalo giving birth. Be prepared to see animals do what they need to survive. The animal rule is kill or be killed. The experience is educational, disturbing, exciting and exhilarating.

Allan Evans, Toronto

READERS’ TIPS

We’ve launched a series that invites Star readers to share places they’ve visited recently and would recommend, whether it’s a weekend getaway in Elora, a Banff canoe trip, or a jaunt to Paris or Rome. If you’ve been, loved it and want to tell us about it, we’d like to hear from you.

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Please include brief responses to these questions. If your holiday experience is chosen, we’ll be in touch.

1. Where did you go and when was it?

2. Where did you stay?

3. What was a highlight of your trip? Why?

4. Any travel tips?