Looking to go back in history for what it used to be like at Smith before sport climbing exploded in The Dihedrals in the mid-80s?


The impressive collection of pinnacles known as The Marsupials lie just across the Gorge. Perched on BLM land off the east side of the park, they are well worth the hike. With views of the both the high desert landscape and the Cascade range, the beauty of Central Oregon abounds.

After going right for a mile at the bridge on the Wolf Tree Trail, head up the Burma Road Trail for another .25 miles and stay straight at the fork.

climbers on Koala Rock by Smith Rock State Park

climbers on Koala Rock by Smith Rock State Park

climbers on top of The Wombat in the Marsupials near Smith Rock State Park

climbers on top of The Wombat in the Marsupials near Smith Rock State Park

Trails veer off in different directions to Koala Rock, The Wombat, and Brogan Spire, to name a few of the main crags in the area.

Looking for a range from 5.2 to 5.14? Check. Looking to do a 10 pitch multi-pitch? Check.

Like we said, totally worth it.

Check these out: (All are rated 3-star in Alan Watts' Guidebook, with * noting a 4-star)

Koala Rock


5.4:

  • *Round River R mixed to 1.5 inches, 3 pitches
     

5.5: 

  • Cool Man Luke R  trad, gear to 1 inch, 1 pitch
     

5.7:

  • *Round There  sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch
     

5.8:

  • Changing Lanes  mixed to 2.5 inches, 1 pitch

  • Round River Direct  sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch
     

5.10: 

  • Suck My Kiss 5.10a  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch

  • *Thin Air 5.10b  mixed to 2.5 inches, 3 pitches

  • Buffalo Power 5.10c  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Ryan's Arête 5.10c  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch
     

5.11:

  • Cool Air 5.11a  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch

  • To Live is to DIe 5.11a  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch

  • King of Pain 5.11b  sport, 12 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Through Being Cool 5.11b  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Ryan's Direct 5.11d  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch

Brogan Spire


North Face


5.6:

  • The Great Roof A2+  clean to 1 inch, 2 pitches
     

5.11:

  • Pouches 5.11c  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch


5.14:

  • *The Optimist 5.14b  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch

South Side


5.5:

  • South Buttress X  mixed to 2 inches, 3 pitches

  • West Face X  mixed to 3 inches, 3 pitches
     

5.7:

  • Cave Route  mixed to 2 inches, 3 pitches
     

5.8:

  • Death of a Raven  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch
     

5.10:

  • Barred Reality 5.10a  sport, 8 bolts, 3 pitches

  • Under the Gun 5.10a  sport, 4 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Short Sharp Shock 5.10b  sport, 4 bolts, 1 pitch

  • West Gully 5.10d  trad, gear to 1 inch, 2 pitches

The Tail


5.7:

  • Living Blindly  sport, 11 bolts, 2 pitches

Mud Pile


5.8:

  • Carla the Stripper  sport, 11 bolts, 1 pitch

  • *Lusty Lady  sport, 14 bolts, 1 pitch
     

5.10:

  • Edge of the World 5.10b  sport, 2 pitches

  • The Marsupials Traverse 5.10b Rmixed to 2.5 inches, 10 pitches
     

5.11:

  • Kid-Packed Mini-Van from Hell 5.11a  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch
     

5.12:

  • Jacobs-Strain Line 5.12c  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch

Delirium Tremens


5.10:

  • Delirium Tremens 5.10b  trad, gear to 2.5 inches, 1 pitch
     

5.11:

  • Airstream 5.11d  sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch

The Wombat


5.7:

  • Birds in a Rut  mixed to 3 inches, 6 pitches
     

5.10:

  • Endless Weekend 5.10b  sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch

The Zoo


5.10:

  • Covert Operations 5.10a  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Ticks are for Kids 5.10a  sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch
     

5.11:

  • Put Me in the Zoo 5.11a  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch

Indian and Mendehall Ridge


Indian Ridge-Squaw Rock


5.2:

  • Spiral R  trad, gear to 2 inches, 1 pitch

Indian and Mendehall Ridge Gully


5.7:

  • Little Finger R solo, 1 pitch

climbing areas